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Exploring the Spiti Valley

Writer's picture: Aayush SharmaAayush Sharma

Updated: Dec 9, 2024

College was nearing its end in May 2019, and my friend Raghav and I decided to embark on an adventurous trip to Spiti Valley. After doing some research, I warned Raghav that this trip would be no walk in the park—it was going to be a thrilling challenge. Since the Manali route to Spiti was closed due to heavy snow at Rohtang Pass, we chose the longer but open route via Shimla, which meant it would take us two days to reach Spiti.

Our journey began with an overnight Volvo bus ride to Shimla, booked through the redBus app, which I highly recommend for hassle-free ticket bookings. We arrived in Shimla early in the morning, around 6-7 am. Our next leg of the trip—a bus to Reckong Peo—was scheduled for 8 pm, giving us nearly an entire day to explore Shimla.

Instead of booking a hotel, we headed to our friend’s aunt’s house in New Shimla. She was an incredibly kind host, offering us a hearty breakfast and a safe spot to stash our rucksacks. With time on our hands, we roamed around Mall Road, soaking in Shimla's charm. As the evening rolled in, we made our way to the bus stand for our overnight HRTC bus ride to Reckong Peo.

This part of the journey was a stark contrast to the comfort of the Volvo. The bumpy roads and the packed bus, full of local passengers traveling without bookings, made for a wild ride. It was clear that our adventure had truly begun.


After an adventurous and almost sleepless overnight bus journey, we finally reached Reckong Peo around 6-7 am. The morning chill was biting, and we quickly layered up with extra sweaters beneath our jackets. Our plan was to spend the night in Reckong Peo before heading to Kaza, Spiti Valley, the following day.

From the bus stop, we hired an Alto to take us to Kalpa, where we had booked a stay at Hotel Snow Hill View. After settling in and resting for a while, we decided to embark on a trek to Chaka Peak, which started just behind our hotel. Chaka is known for its camping area, offering breathtaking views of the peak.

Unfortunately, our trek took an unexpected turn—we got lost along the trail, and Raghav injured his leg. After trekking for about 2-3 hours, we had to turn back. Despite the setback, the journey was stunning, and we managed to capture some incredible photos of the landscapes.

Back at the hotel, Raghav chose to rest, while I ventured out to explore the local market and a nearby monastery. By late evening, I decided to take a long walk from the hotel to Suicide Point and Roghi Village. The peace and freshness of the mountain air during the walk were unmatched, offering a serene escape from the hustle of daily life.

On my way back, I hopped on a local bus and returned to the hotel just in time for dinner. Exhausted from the trek and the previous night's bus journey, we called it a day early, ensuring we’d be well-rested for the journey to Kaza the next day.



To travel from Reckong Peo to Kaza, we had two options: an HRTC bus or a shared tempo/jeep. After weighing the choices, we decided to prioritize comfort over cost and found a 9-seater Sumo. While the bus was the cheapest option, the Sumo driver charged us ₹600 each for a much more comfortable ride.

The road trip from Reckong Peo to Kaza was an absolute dream. The journey, spanning around 6-7 hours, was a visual feast of breathtaking landscapes, rugged terrains, and endless scenic beauty. Every turn revealed something magical, from towering mountains to serene valleys.

Once we arrived in Kaza, we headed straight to Lhasa Homestay, a cozy and welcoming spot we had preselected for our three-night stay. After settling in, we planned our itinerary for the next two days, focusing on exploring Spiti Valley's iconic villages, including Chicham, Kee, Langza, Komic, Hikkim, Kibber, and Dhankar.

We met Tanju, a friendly local who owned a brand-new Baleno. After a bit of negotiation, we booked him for two days to take us to these villages. His knowledge of the area and his comfortable car made him the perfect companion for our adventures.

With our accommodation and transport sorted, we took the evening to explore Kaza's charming marketplace and vibrant cafes. The laid-back vibe of this remote mountain town was incredibly refreshing and set the tone for the adventures ahead.



Exploring the Spiti Valley we start with - CHICHAM

We began our day bright and early, ready to explore the wonders of Spiti Valley. Tanju, our friendly guide and driver, arrived promptly to take us on our adventure. The first stop was the Chicham Bridge, renowned as the highest bridge in Asia. Situated at an altitude of approximately 4,100 meters, this engineering marvel offers breathtaking views of the deep gorge below and the surrounding mountains.

Although we didn’t venture into Chicham village due to time constraints, the experience of standing on the bridge itself was unforgettable. The crisp mountain air and panoramic scenery were absolutely mesmerizing. We clicked plenty of pictures and spent about 15–20 minutes soaking in the beauty of the place.

Tanju proved to be the perfect companion for this journey. Being a local from Spiti, he shared fascinating stories and insights about the valley, keeping us entertained throughout. His knowledge and enthusiasm added a special touch to our trip.



KIBBER VILLAGE

From Chicham, our next destination was the Key Monastery, a spiritual and architectural jewel of Spiti Valley. On the way, we passed through Kibber village, one of the highest motorable villages in the world. Kibber is also famed as the second-highest motorable village globally, making it a must-visit for travelers exploring Spiti.

The village itself was charming, with its traditional Spitian houses and a sense of serenity in the air. Kibber is home to a wildlife sanctuary, uniquely located on the banks of the Spiti River. This sanctuary holds the distinction of being India’s only cold desert wildlife sanctuary, offering a haven for rare species like snow leopards and Himalayan ibex.

The drive through this route, with its awe-inspiring landscapes and fascinating stops, made the journey as memorable as the destinations themselves.


KEE VILLAGE

Our next stop was the Key Monastery (Kye Gompa), the largest and most prominent monastery in Spiti Valley. Perched on a hill at an altitude of 4,166 meters, it serves not only as a religious sanctuary but also as a training center for Lamas.

The monastery’s architecture is mesmerizing, with its tiered structure blending harmoniously with the rugged mountain backdrop. It’s one of the most beautifully constructed monasteries I’ve ever seen.

Key Monastery also functions as a teaching center, attracting students from all over the region who come here to gain education and spiritual wisdom. The tranquility of this place is unparalleled; standing there, surrounded by the serene ambiance, it felt as if I had discovered the peace I had been searching for all along.


LANGZA

In Langza, we visited the iconic gigantic statue of Gautam Buddha, which overlooks the breathtaking expanse of Spiti Valley. The sight was awe-inspiring, and we couldn’t resist clicking a ton of pictures. After soaking in the serenity, we stopped by a cozy tea shop near the statue, where I tried the local Spiti tea infused with sea buckthorn leaves—a unique and refreshing experience.

While at Langza, we met Nivedita, a solo traveler from Mumbai. It was fascinating to hear about her adventures as we exchanged stories from our ongoing trips. Coincidentally, our next two destinations—Komic and Hikkim—were the same, so she decided to hitch a ride with us.



KOMIC

Our next stop was Komic, famed as the world’s highest village connected by a motorable road at an altitude of 4,587 meters. Unfortunately, the Komic Gompa was closed during our visit, so we couldn’t explore it from the inside. We did, however, take some memorable pictures right at its doorstep.

One notable spot in Komic was the Tangyud Monastery, where the body of a rare snow leopard is preserved. This was done out of reverence after the animal’s natural death—a testament to the monks’ respect for nature.

For lunch, we dined at the “World’s Highest Restaurant”, an experience that added to the uniqueness of our journey. At this point, I couldn’t help but chuckle at how almost everything in Spiti seemed to carry the “highest in the world” tag.



HIKKIM

Hikkim is renowned for being home to the world’s highest post office, and we couldn’t resist the opportunity to send a postcard from there to our families as a special memory. The little shop near the post office offered postcards and various souvenirs, and there were even ancient fossils on display—reminders of how rich the region’s history is.

After snapping some photos, we headed back to our stay. On the way, we dropped off Nivedita, a lone traveler from Mumbai, in the middle of nowhere. She had decided to continue her journey on foot, confident and fearless. While we were a bit apprehensive, she was determined. I’ve never met a braver soul—respect to her for her courage and independence.



On the second day, we had just one place on our itinerary—Dhankar. We were also preparing for our return journey to Rampur the following morning. To make the trip more comfortable and budget-friendly, we booked two seats in a 12-seater tempo traveler, which turned out to be the best option for the journey.


LHALUNG

On our way to Dhankar, Tanju mentioned that we would pass through Lhalung Village, so we decided to make a stop. We visited the Lhalung Monastery, one of the oldest in Spiti. We spent about 10-15 minutes there, taking in the peaceful surroundings and capturing some pictures.

The name "Lhalung" means "Land of Gods," and it is believed that Lhalung Devta is the chief deity of all the gods in the valley.



DHANKAR

We reached Dhankar, and Tanju took us to a local shop where we had breakfast and coffee. While sitting there, Raghav and I decided to do the Dhankar Lake trek first and visit the Dhankar Monastery afterward.

The trek was enjoyable, but the terrain was rough, and the oxygen level decreased as we gained altitude. Although I didn’t face any serious issues, I did feel my oxygen levels drop gradually. I wouldn't recommend this trek for anyone with breathing problems. It took us about 1.5 hours to reach the lake.

When we reached the top, the view was nothing short of magical. The blue waters of the lake were surrounded by snowy mountains—it felt like heaven. All my tiredness disappeared as I took in the breathtaking sight. It truly felt like these challenges were nothing compared to the reward of the view. We just sat there, relaxed, and soaked in the beauty.

After returning from the trek, we visited the Dhankar Monastery. The structure was magnificent, and we noticed the preserved body of a Himalayan Ibex. The meditation rooms in the monastery had low ceilings, and Tanju explained that this was because the monks who once lived there were much shorter in stature.



After returning from Dhankar, we were back in Kaza, and it was time to part ways with Tanju. Over the course of the journey, he had become a close friend. There were no mobile networks in Kaza, except for MTNL, so we used Tanju's phone to call home. Before we left, he also gave us a local tour of Kaza.

This experience perfectly embodied what travel is all about—meeting new people from different cultures and forming connections that last a lifetime.



We spent our last night in Spiti and left early the next morning for Rampur. It turned out to be an incredibly long journey, taking us around 13-14 hours. While it usually takes about 8-9 hours, we were delayed due to landslides along the way.

We reached Rampur around 7-8 pm and took the HRTC bus to Shimla, where we finally arrived around 11 pm. The journey was exhausting, totaling around 17-18 hours.

Now, we were in a dilemma: should we rent a place to stay for just a few hours, or wait for our bus to Delhi, which was scheduled for 6 am? We opted for the latter and spent the night at the bus stop, marking our first experience of sleeping there.



After a quick breakfast near the bus stop, we boarded the bus to Delhi, concluding our unforgettable trip. Spiti Valley is truly a heaven on earth, and I believe every mountain lover should experience a road trip to this magical place.

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